Owning a genuine U.S. 1918 Mark I trench knife is more than bragging rights—it is a stake in living history. Every casting flaw in the brass knuckle-duster, every carbon-steel grind mark, and even the particular stale-oil smell of an original leather scabbard whisper about muddy French trenches and close-quarters combat a century ago. A reproduction can mimic the silhouette, but it can’t carry the silent testimony of wartime manufacture, issue, and survival; without that provenance you’re holding a movie prop, not an artifact.
Authenticity also drives market value. A documented LF&C or Au Lion example with untouched patina routinely commands four figures at auction, whereas a modern copy might fetch the price of a steak dinner—before dessert. Collectors, insurers, and estate planners all lean on verifiable traits (maker marks, metallurgy, wartime scabbards) to set valuations; a single incorrect font or newly machined pommel nut can vaporise 90 % of the knife’s worth overnight.
Finally, there is the legal–ethical angle. Many jurisdictions ban or restrict sales of modern “brass-knuckle” weapons but carve out exemptions for bona-fide antiques. If you can’t prove the knife left the factory in 1918, you may find yourself explaining to customs—or worse, to a judge—why you imported a prohibited weapon. Equally, museums and private collections risk reputational damage when reproductions slip into catalogues unchecked. Authenticity, then, is not pedantry; it is the passport that lets the 1918 trench knife travel legitimately between history, value, and the law.
A Brief History of the U.S. 1918 Mark I Trench Knife
Few weapons illustrate the brutal improvisation of World War I like the U.S. 1918 Mark I trench knife. In 1917, after grim lessons in the mud of the Somme, American planners realised that the standard-issue bolo and bayonet were clumsy inside a sap or dug-out. The first American answer—the M1917 “knuckle-rim” knife—featured a simple cast-iron guard bolted to a triangular stiletto blade, but it shattered almost as often as it struck. Soldiers kept snapping the hilts, then quietly “losing” the knives in favour of homemade weapons fashioned from files and rebar.
When the Ordnance Department went back to the drawing board, officers looked across the Atlantic for inspiration. French assault troops already carried the Au Lion knuckle-duster dagger, a wicked little tool that combined a brass knuckle guard with a slender stiletto. The U.S. design team essentially Americanised that concept—lengthening the handle, beefing up the pommel and specifying a one-piece cast-brass grip threaded for a nut. The resulting pattern, officially adopted in January 1918, became the U.S. 1918 Mark I trench knife.
Production contracts went to three makers: Landers, Frary & Clark (LF&C) in Connecticut, American Cutlery Company in Chicago, and the original French supplier Au Lion. All firms retained the same basic blueprint—seven-inch triangular carbon-steel blade, eight saw-tooth points on the knuckle-guard, skull-crusher pommel and distinctive “U.S. 1918” casting on the grip—but each left subtle fingerprints in font style, nut thread pitch and scabbard hardware. Roughly 120 000 units rolled off the lines before the Armistice halted orders in November 1918.
Ironically, few Mark I knives ever saw the Western Front; entire crates went straight into U.S. depots, emerging again in 1942 when Rangers and paratroopers raided the stores for something handier than a bayonet. Surplus sales after World War II scattered the remaining stock into basements and footlockers, setting the stage for today’s collector market—where the difference between a battlefield veteran and a garage-made reproduction can mean thousands of dollars and a slice of history.
Original Makers & Contract Markings
When the Mark I pattern was finalised in early 1918, the Ordnance Department gambled on three very different factories—one American consumer-goods titan, one French cutler working under licence, and one Chicago outfit that normally made table knives. Their individual casting moulds, stamping dies and supply-chain shortcuts left minute fingerprints all over each batch. Learning to read those fingerprints is the fastest route to separating a battlefield relic from a weekend replica.
Landers Frary & Clark (LF&C)
Founded in New Britain, Connecticut, LF&C was already famous for coffee grinders and electric toasters when the war department shoved a trench knife blueprint across the desk. The company possessed modern die-casting equipment and, more importantly, an accountant’s eye for deadlines; it received the largest contract—roughly 60 000 knives—and delivered the bulk of them before the Armistice.
On an original LF&C knife the maker’s mark is cast, not stamped, into the inside of the knuckle bow: a crisp block font reading “L.F.&C.–1918”. Because the letters shared the mould with the brass grip, the edges look slightly rounded under magnification; in fakes they are often laser-sharp or sand-blasted soft. The triangular blade tends to show a pale grey matte from factory Parkerising, and the ricasso is usually blank—another tell-tale, since counterfeiters like to over-stamp this empty real estate.
LF&C scabbards carry a steel throat crimped over a rawhide body, capped by a rim-less eagle-snap fastener on the belt loop. Collectors joke that the company’s housewares DNA is visible here—the snaps age exactly like 1920s pressure-cookers, turning a warm bronze-green while the leather darkens almost black. Miss that colour combination, and you are probably handling a reproduction or a marriage of parts.
Au Lion (French contract)
The French firm popularly known as Au Lion—its paperwork lists the more cumbersome Société Générale d’Armes de St-Étienne—was already casting brass-guard stilettos for its own poilus. The U.S. contract simply asked for a change of inscription from “Avril 1916” to the now-familiar “U.S. 1918”. Production figures hover near 22 000 pieces, but battlefield attrition and post-war scrap drives mean far fewer survive.
Au Lion blades are the easiest to spot. Instead of a blank ricasso they wear the stylised lion trademark flanked by the word FRANCE—a stamp struck deep enough to trap decades of oil and trench grit. The brass grip is marginally narrower than its American cousins, and the finger guards taper more elegantly towards the tips, betraying the French fondness for épée ergonomics even in a utilitarian weapon.
Leather scabbards contract-made in St-Étienne feature two narrow reinforcing bars stitched down the front face—absent on U.S. versions—and a domed, nickel-plated snap. Many were over-painted horizon-blue to match French web gear; flakes of that paint inside the throat are, for authenticity hunters, as exciting as finding a mint mark on a silver dollar.
American Cutlery Co. & Others
Chicago’s American Cutlery Company took the smallest U.S. order—about 34 000 units—yet its knives punch well above their weight in the collector market because they show the widest machining quirks. The handle inscription reads “A-C C O – USA 1917” in a taller, thinner font, and the letters often exhibit microscopic chill lines where the brass cooled too quickly. Counterfeits rarely bother to copy these unsightly but definitive ripples.
American Cutlery blades were ground on civilian cutlery wheels, leaving a tell-tale hollow near the midpoint before the flats meet to form the stiletto tri-edge. Under bright light that hollow flashes like a shallow valley—subtle, but absent on LF&C blades and impossible on Au Lion’s thicker forgings. The grip’s pommel nut is another giveaway: A-C used a 12-thread-per-inch pattern while LF&C stuck to 11 TPI, a godsend to anyone with a pitch gauge and patience.
A handful of experimental or training-camp knives—some unmarked, others bearing obscure initials such as “H.D.&S.”—circulated stateside in 1918, but none won official approval. They surface occasionally at flea markets, riding on folklore and wishful thinking. Unless documentation is iron-clad, treat them as curiosities, not contract pieces, and price accordingly. The Mark I story, for all practical and collector purposes, is the three-maker tale told above; everything else lives in the fertile borderland between prototype and fantasy.
Anatomy of an Original Knife
Collectors often say that the U.S. 1918 Mark I trench knife is three weapons in one— stiletto, knuckle-duster and blunt-force pommel. That hybrid nature explains why reproductions routinely trip over the details: copy one element poorly and the whole package screams modern. The following breakdown shows where to look, measure and tap before you open your wallet.
Blade Geometry & Triangular Stiletto Steel
The original blade is exactly 6 ¾ to 7 inches long, forged from medium-carbon steel in a tri-edge stiletto profile. Unlike a bayonet or bowie, the Mark I’s faces meet at 120-degree angles, creating three shallow fullers that run the length of the blade. Modern replicas often miss this geometry and grind a simple diamond cross-section—close at a glance, but nowhere near as rigid or as piercing in dense material.
Look for the Mach 3 grind lines: two broad, machine-ground flats sweep from the ricasso and terminate in a blunt, almost unfinished apex at the tip. Wartime tolerances meant these edges were intended to be sharpened in the field; factory edges were left semi-dull to pass ordnance inspection without slicing the inspector. On a real knife the grind marks still show a directional “ghost” under patina; acid-dip replicas erase that history.
Metallurgy is another giveaway. Originals spark brightly on a grinder with medium-length orange tails—classic 1055/1080-series behaviour. Reproductions made from stainless throw shorter, whiter sparks. If a seller refuses a five-second spark test, assume they already know the answer.
Cast-Brass Knuckle Duster & Pommel Nut Specs
The grip is one continuous lost-wax cast of naval brass—roughly 85 % copper, 12 % zinc, plus a whisper of tin and lead for fluidity. Each of the four finger holes is oval inside, rounded outside, then capped by eight scalloped spikes that look decorative yet break glass and sternums with equal enthusiasm. A genuine grip weighs 11–12 ounces bare; lighter usually means sand-cast replica, heavier hints at modern silicon-bronze.
Inside, a milled tang channel runs dead-centre and ends in –threads. LF&C and Au Lion used 11 threads per inch; American Cutlery chose 12 TPI. Thread gauges do not lie: one mismatch here and the pommel nut either backs off or refuses to start. Speaking of the nut, it should be flat-faced, 9/16-inch across, with four tiny punch-marks where inspectors hammered it tight. CNC-turned replacements tend to be dome-headed or perfectly polished—handsome, but historically impossible.
Cast lettering completes the picture. “U.S. 1918” rides the grip spine in ⅛-inch block font, its edges slightly softened by the mould. Repro makers usually engrave or laser-etch the text, producing razor-sharp corners. Run a cotton swab across the letters: if fibres snag on crisp corners, you are holding yesterday’s casting, not Pershing’s.
Leather Scabbards & Stamp Positions
No Mark I is complete without its rawhide-covered wooden scabbard. Originals feel paradoxically light—just 95–105 g—because the core is poplar, not oak. The rawhide shrank tight during drying, leaving shallow vein lines and a drum-skin texture you can feel even through a century of oil. Modern cowhide wraps are thicker, flatter and often smell of chrome tan.
At the throat sits a riveted steel collar parkerised the same slate-grey as the blade. LF&C collars are stamped “L.F.&C. 1918” on the front face; Au Lion scabbards seldom bear any maker marks but may show a pencilled depot code inside the belt loop. American Cutlery, true to Midwestern thrift, stamped nothing at all—making their scabbards the joy of forgers and the headache of experts.
Finally, inspect the snap fastener. Real scabbards use the rim-less eagle-head—or “Doughboy”—snap patented in 1917. Its cap is smooth, plain brass, and the female half is zinc-plated steel. Reproduction snaps often come from commercial glove hardware and display decorative rings or knife makers‘ logos. When that circle of brass looks too pretty, assume the rest of the knife is too.
Video Credit: @TheKnifeLifeChannel
Step-by-Step Authentication Checklist
Veteran collectors like to joke that a real 1918 trench knife “fails the beauty test”—if it looks fresh from the jeweller, walk away. Below is a forensic path you can follow at the workbench, moving from the easiest visual cues to the metallurgical absolutes that finish the argument.
Markings, Fonts & Placement
First, let your eyes do the heavy lifting. An authentic grip casts “U.S. 1918” in a single line dead-centre on the spine; the letters are integral to the brass, not laser-etched afterward. Put the inscription under oblique light: genuine cast characters show softened shoulders where molten metal flowed around the pattern, whereas modern CNC or acid-etching leaves knife-sharp corners that glint like new coins.
Inside the knuckle bow sits the maker code—“L.F.&C.”, “A C C O” or the Au Lion lion stamp. On originals those marks are tucked tight against the guard wall because wartime moulds were cut cheap and shallow; repro foundries often centre the text for symmetry, a neatness the Doughboys never enjoyed.
Blade ricassos tell their own story. The French contract blade shows a jaunty lion within a lozenge, struck deep enough to hold 100 years of dust; the American blades stay blank. If you see a ricasso sprouting serial numbers, patriotic slogans or—worst of all—a copyright symbol, you have wandered into fantasy land.
Material Tests: Carbon-Steel vs Modern Alloys
Grab a grinder or, if you’re at a gun-show table, the nearest spark wheel. Traditional 1080-ish carbon steel throws long orange sparks with branching tails; stainless shoots stubby, whitish sparks that fizzle out like faulty fireworks. Five seconds will do—any seller who objects is answering the test for you.
Next, run a good file across the flat of the blade. A correct heat-treat leaves the steel just shy of 50 HRC; you should feel bite but not skating. Stainless reproductions are often heat-treated soft to save tooling wear, so a file chews them like mild bar stock.
For the brass grip, pocket scales reveal the lie: an uncut casting weighs roughly 11–12 ounces. Modern silicon-bronze or zinc-heavy mixtures shave grams—or add too many. If you cannot weigh the knife, note the temperature; high-copper brass feels strangely warm to the touch, while silicon-bronze stays chilly. Yes, seasoned dealers really do “hug” the grip for a moment and smile knowingly.
Wear Patterns, Patina & Tool-Marks
Age is more than colour; it is unevenness. On a century-old grip you will see micro-pitting around the finger spikes where sweat pooled, yet the recess behind the guard remains relatively smooth. Reproduction patina, applied with ammonia fumes or liver of sulfur, coats everything in a uniform shade of arts-and-crafts brown—pretty, but as plausible as a spotless trench coat.
Blade flats show directional grind striations that stop a millimetre shy of the apex—a sign of factory speed rather than modern pride. If those lines run perpendicular to the edge or, worse, exhibit orbital-sander swirls, you are looking at post-war handiwork.
Turn to the pommel nut. Original inspectors seated the nut with a punch, leaving four crescent dings at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. Counterfeiters love a socket wrench, producing pristine hex flats or over-polished domes. Nothing screams “fresh lathe work” like a nut without scars.
Common Reproduction Red Flags
- Thread mismatch: the nut spins half-way then locks, or vice-versa. LF&C and Au Lion used 11 TPI; American Cutlery ran 12.
- Gloss varnish on brass or leather: originals were issued naked; any modern clear-coat traps verdigris in perfect suspension, a museum-gift-shop look the AEF never funded.
- Symmetrical, needle-point blade tips: trench knives left the factory blunted for safety. A needle tip signals belt-sander enthusiasm fifty years too late.
- Identical finger-guard scallops: hand-finished wartime moulds left each spike slightly unique. If the arcs match like copy-and-paste, so did the CAD file.
- Scabbard hardware stamped “Made in India” or sporting Phillips screws: congratulations—you have bought an export tourist piece, useful only for opening letters.
Spot two of the above and alarm bells should ring; spot three and you are negotiating the price of a movie prop, not a battlefield heirloom.
Market Value & Current Auction Benchmarks
An original 1918 Mark I trench knife in complete, service-used condition now sits in the USD 800 – 2,000 bracket. At Rock Island’s October 2024 militaria sale, an LF&C knife with scabbard carried an $ 1,200–1,800 estimate and met the midpoint of that range, confirming the market’s “sweet spot” for honest but un-refinished examples. rockislandauction.com Retail dealers echo the trend: Arizona Custom Knives logged two LF&C sales in February 2025 at $ 1,045 and $ 1,975 respectively, the spread driven almost entirely by scabbard condition and matching hardware.
Maker scarcity still shapes the high and low ends. LF&C pieces are the most common and thus the price baseline. French-contract Au Lion knives surface less often but, paradoxically, do not always command a premium; a May 2025 Poulin Antiques catalogue pegged one at just $600–900 because collectors worry about European repros wearing counterfeit lion stamps. invaluable.com American Cutlery examples, produced in the smallest numbers, regularly clear $2 000 when the grip lettering and 12-TPI pommel nut are intact—though public auction data remain thin because many trade privately.
Condition and provenance swing the ceiling. Add an untouched scabbard, trench initials or wartime paperwork and the figure doubles; remove the scabbard or polish the brass and it halves. Outliers prove the rule: a custom-engraved LF&C knife with presentation history hammered at $ 3,936 at Morphy’s in May 2025, showing that story and rarity can still push the Mark I into late-war Luger money. At the opposite extreme, reproduction knives—often stainless, sold as “wall-hangers”—retail for $80–150 and possess zero collector upside. In short, the gulf between artifact and replica has never been wider, and every detail described in the authentication checklist now translates directly into four-figure swings in market value.
Legal Considerations & Shipping/Import Rules
Antique status ≠ blanket immunity. Under U.S. Customs & Border Protection guidelines, any object proved to be more than 100 years old may enter the country duty-free as an antique—and that does include edged weapons. Yet CBP’s antique carve-out only removes import tariffs; it does not override criminal statutes that classify a Mark I as a combination of dagger and brass-knuckle weapon. A collector can therefore clear customs legally and still violate state law the moment the parcel crosses the county line. help.cbp.gov
State and municipal codes vary wildly. Roughly a dozen U.S. states (California, New York, New Jersey, among others) treat brass knuckles—and by extension a 1918 trench knife—as prohibited offensive weapons unless they meet a specific “historical or curio” exemption written into the statute. Other states (Texas, Arizona) allow simple possession of antiques but criminalise concealed carry. Because no single federal rule pre-empts these laws, prudent sellers insist on adult-signature services (FedEx “Dangerous Goods,” UPS “Over 21 Signature”) or refuse shipment outright to restricted ZIP codes. en.wikipedia.org
Postal and export hurdles remain. The U.S. Postal Service bars any item that combines a fixed blade with a knuckle guard from regular mail; private carriers will transport it domestically but require written confirmation that the buyer’s jurisdiction permits ownership. For exports, the knife still appears on the U.S. Munitions List as a “close-combat weapon,” so you must file an Automated Export System (AES) declaration; however, most destinations waive licence requirements for artifacts greater than 100 years old—provided that the customs form and commercial invoice both describe the item explicitly as “Antique 1918 Mark I trench knife, over 100 years old, HS 9706.00.” Collectors in the U.K., Canada, and Australia should verify local antique-weapons exemptions before purchase, because several Commonwealth nations ban modern knuckle weapons but permit bona-fide relics under museum-piece clauses.
Bottom line: proof of date, clear paperwork and carrier choice matter as much as authenticity. Fail to document those three, and the rarest LF&C can seize up at the border—or worse, in the evidence locker—faster than any modern replica. findlaw.com
Care, Preservation & Display Tips for Collectors
A 1918 Mark I trench knife requires a different maintenance routine than modern custom knives. Its medium-carbon steel will spot-rust if humidity tops 50 %, yet the brass grip enjoys oxygen—patina seals its surface like armor. Store the knife in a climate-controlled cabinet at 40–45 % RH and 18–22 °C. Avoid foam-lined pistol cases; their closed-cell cushions trap moisture and off-gas acids that pit steel within months. A shallow wooden cradle padded with inert wool felt lets air circulate and keeps weight off the fragile triangle point.
Cleaning should be conservative and fully reversible. Wipe steel flats with a lint-free patch dampened in high-refinement mineral oil (pharmaceutical grade, sans additives). That thin film arrests oxidation but will not seep into the brass pores. For the grip, skip metal polishes—each pass erases micro-tool-marks that prove authenticity. Instead, warm the brass gently under a desk lamp and burnish it with a soft horsehair brush; friction alone lifts loose grime while leaving the dark trench-aged tone intact. Once a year, buff a whisper of microcrystalline wax across both steel and brass, then cure for 24 hours to lock out fingerprints.
Leather scabbards deserve equal respect. Rawhide shrinks when parched and grows fungus when wet, so hydration must be precise. Mist the inside lightly with de-ionised water, let it settle for ten minutes, and follow with a dab of museum-grade leather dressing—no silicone, no mink oil. Slide the knife home only when the sheath feels dry-cool, never tacky; otherwise trapped vapour condenses against the blade.
Display lighting adds the final layer of insurance. Bright halogens can push brass north of 35 °C, accelerating dezincification and turning the grip powdery green. Switch to low-UV LEDs at 300–350 lux, angled so reflections highlight, not bleach, the maker marks. If you must handle the knife, cotton archivist gloves prevent salt transfer, but bare hands are acceptable provided they are oil-free and brief. Remember: every fingerprint you avoid today saves a restoration bill tomorrow, and that restraint is what keeps a century-old fighting knife looking exactly like the day it came home in a Doughboy’s duffel.
Frequently Asked Questions
These quick answers cover the identification, value, legality, care and sourcing questions collectors ask most often—keeping both your wallet and your historical artefact out of trouble.
Q 1: How can I spot a replica in 30 seconds?
A: Start with three quick checks. First, look at the grip lettering—on originals, “U.S. 1918” is cast into the brass and the edges are slightly rounded, not laser-sharp. Second, examine the pommel nut: genuine knives show four small punch-marks where inspectors peened it tight, whereas modern nuts look perfectly machined. Third, inspect the blade’s cross-section; a real Mark I has a true triangular stiletto, not a simple diamond grind. If two of these points fail, it is almost certainly a reproduction.
Q 2: What is my 1918 trench knife worth right now?
A: As of mid-2025, complete Landers Frary & Clark (LF&C) examples typically sell for $800 – $ 2,000. French Au Lion knives sit in a similar range, while the scarcer American Cutlery Co. versions often exceed $ 2,200 when the scabbard and pommel nut match. Condition can swing the price up or down by roughly 40 percent, and documented wartime provenance can double any figure.
Q 3: Are 1918 trench knives legal to own?
A: Federally, yes—if you can verify the knife is an antique over 100 years old. State and municipal laws vary, though. California, New York, New Jersey and several other jurisdictions classify brass-knuckle weapons as prohibited unless specifically exempted as curios or antiques. Always confirm local regulations before buying, shipping or displaying one.
Q 4: Should I polish the brass or sharpen the blade?
A: No. Polishing removes the patina and micro-tool-marks that prove authenticity, cutting the knife’s value dramatically. Likewise, the blades left the factory with a semi-dull edge so soldiers could sharpen them to personal taste; modern re-sharpening destroys that historical context. Instead, wipe the steel with a drop of mineral oil and protect the brass with a microcrystalline wax.
Q 5: Where can I buy an authentic example safely?
A: Reputable militaria auction houses—Rock Island, Morphy, Poulin—offer detailed photos, provenance checks and guarantees. Specialist forums like U.S. Militaria Collectors also vet listings. Avoid generic “mil-spec” web shops: nearly everything they sell is souvenir steel, not a trench veteran.
Video Credit: Pawn Stars.
Conclusion
The U.S. 1918 Mark I trench knife sits at the uneasy crossroads of archaeology and metallurgy—part weapon, part time capsule, part cautionary tale for anyone who assumes “old” automatically means “authentic.” We have traced its makers, decoded the tiny casting quirks, and mapped the legal minefield that still surrounds a brass-knuckle dagger more than a century after the Armistice. Follow the step-by-step checks: measure the thread pitch, feel the spark pattern, read the grip lettering under oblique light. Resist the urge to polish away a century of sweat or to “improve” the edge that Doughboys were expected to finish in the field.
Treat a genuine Mark I the same way you would a high-end piece from today’s custom knives scene: humidity-controlled, handled with clean hands, and documented down to the last inspector’s punch mark. Do that, and you preserve not just a collectible, but a fragment of the brutal ingenuity that trench warfare forced upon a generation. Anything less, and you risk owning a handsome replica—proof that shortcuts still cost more than craftsmanship, whether the year is 1918 or 2025.
References & Further Reading:
Cole, M. H. U.S. Military Knives, Bayonets & Machetes. 3-vol. set, Privately published, 1973–1988. Definitive photo plates of every Mark I variant, with contract production notes.
Military affairs: journal of the American Military Institute, American Military History Foundation, American Military Institute, Kansas State University, Dept. of History (1937) Vol. I, p. 153
US Model 1918 Mk 1 Trench Knife/ National Museum of American History
The evolution of the trench knife sofrep.com
Crowell, Benedict (1919), America’s Munitions 1917-1918, Report of Benedict Crowell, Assistant Secretary of War (Director of Munitions) U.S. War Department, Washington, D.C.: U.S. Government Printing Office, pp. 88, 228
US Militaria Forum is one reputed forum that can offer help regarding a 1918 trench knife.
U.S. Customs & Border Protection. Importing Antiques and Cultural Artifacts (CBP Publication 613), 2023 update—sections on edged weapons and knuckle devices.
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My friend is not into weapons of war and is in a state of being without money and or a job. So I advised him to sell it so he wants a non-negotiable price of $ 200.00 US Dollars.
I have a WWI US 1918 LF&C knuckleduster trench knife in a leather scabbard. I would like to sell it. Do you have suggestions for how to sell this item? I inherited from my grandparents. Thank you. Jeff
Consider listing your WWI US 1918 LF&C trench knife on auction sites like eBay or specialized militaria platforms, as well as contacting reputable antique or military auction houses for appraisal and consignment options. It might also help to join collectors’ forums or Facebook groups where experts and enthusiasts can offer additional advice and potential buyers.
Hello Sir,
Your column is very useful.
I’m looking for the exact dimensions of a TKT 18, particularly the nut,
in order to verify if mine is authentic.
Best regards,
Thierry Desemberg.
Hello Thierry,
The “TKT 18” you refer to is typically the U.S. M1918 (Mark I) Trench Knife. While exact specs can differ among original wartime manufacturers, here are some commonly referenced dimensions:
Blade Length: Approximately 6.75 inches (17 cm).
Overall Length: Around 11.75 inches (30 cm).
Handle/Knuckle Guard: Cast brass with integrated spikes or ridges, typically marked “U.S. 1918” plus the maker’s name or initials (e.g., “LF&C”).
Pommel Nut Dimensions: Often about 0.5–0.6 inches (12–15 mm) in diameter and roughly 0.3 inches (8 mm) thick, with a thread that’s consistent (not off-center or poorly cast).
Reproduction nuts are sometimes noticeably different in size or thread quality.
To verify authenticity, compare your knife’s markings, handle shape, and nut dimensions with those documented for known originals. Sharp, well-formed manufacturer stamps and quality brass casting (versus brittle or poorly finished metal) are also good indicators of an original piece. If your findings match these standards, there’s a good chance your trench knife is genuine.
I’m trying to find out the value on a trench art knife that I have
The value of a trench knife depends on factors like its condition, materials, craftsmanship, historical significance, and rarity. For an accurate appraisal, consult a specialist in military antiques, or visit online forums and auction sites where similar items are sold.
My trench knife says US 1918
Then on that same side but on the blade part it says United on the other side on the blade it says UC275 under that it says Taiwan. I’m guessing these aren’t worth very much??
Your knife is a reproduction of the U.S. 1918 trench knife, produced by United Cutlery (model UC275) in Taiwan. These replicas are commonly found on the market and typically sell for modest prices. For instance, a United UC275 knife was listed on eBay for $90.
While they hold value as collectibles, especially for enthusiasts of military replicas, their worth is generally limited compared to original World War trench knives.
The knife was banned due to its brutality. Imagine fighting for your life as someone is trying to kill you and thinking, “oh no I can’t do that because it would be rude.”
I believe I found an authentic WW2 tranch knife handle in a Goodwill dumpster but its missing the blade and the small piece (skull crusher) definitely looks the age.
Jegou are you still trying to sell you knuckle duster?
My Uncle got it in ww2
I have a US 1918 au lion in excellent condition what’s it worth
Hello I am looking to sell a US 1918 knife which belonged to my father or can I sell it please.
I have my Dad’s LF&C 1918 knife in a leather sheath that he carried in the Solomon Islands & New Guinea during WW2. I’ll never part with it. Great Info. Thanks
I found a trench knife but with out its blade attached too.. US 1918
perfect article!!
How do you sell an original, 1918 trench knife with the knuckle duster if they are technically illegal? Also, is it legal if you are just a collector and have no intentions to carry it?
Thank you
When considering the sale of an original 1918 trench knife with a knuckle duster, it’s crucial to navigate legal regulations carefully due to the varied weapons laws in different regions. To legally sell such an item, you should:
Research Local Laws: Understand the specific laws in your area regarding antique weapons.
Understand Collector and Historical Item Exemptions: Some regions have exemptions for collectors or historical items, but these don’t automatically apply to all transactions.
Use Appropriate Selling Platforms: Choose platforms that legally allow the sale of such items.
Maintain Proper Documentation and Provenance: Have all necessary paperwork to prove the item’s authenticity and legal status.
Communicate Clearly with Buyers: Ensure potential buyers are aware of the item’s nature and their legal responsibilities.
Adhere to Shipping Regulations: Follow specific rules for shipping weapons, even antiques.
Even if you’re a collector with no intent to use the knife, laws regarding possession, sale, and transportation must be strictly followed to ensure compliance and safety.
I have a trench knife i believe is fake but trying to get an opinion from an expert
Is 1918 trench knife illegal in New York?
The legality of specific knives, including the 1918 trench knife, can be complex and is subject to change over time. The 1918 trench knife, also known as the Mark I trench knife, is notable for its knuckle-duster grip and its spike pommel.
Historically, New York State has had laws against metal knuckle weapons, which could potentially categorize the 1918 trench knife’s distinctive brass knuckles grip as illegal. New York’s penal law, under § 265.01, lists “metal knuckle knife” as a prohibited weapon.
Furthermore, local ordinances in cities, such as New York City, may have their own specific restrictions that go beyond or differ from state laws.
If you are considering owning, purchasing, selling, or carrying a 1918 trench knife or any other weapon in New York, it’s crucial to:
Check the most current state and local laws and regulations.
Consult with an attorney or legal expert familiar with New York weapons laws to ensure you fully understand any potential legal implications.
Remember, laws can change, and interpretations of those laws can vary based on circumstances and specific legal definitions.