For a quick orientation across the most common types of knives, use the chart below to match each blade to its ideal sharpening angle before diving into the detailed explanations.
Contents
Ever sliced a ripe tomato only to watch the blade skid across the skin instead of gliding through? Whether you’re working with finely crafted custom knives or an everyday chef’s blade, the culprit nine times out of ten isn’t the steel, the stone, or your technique—it’s the angle. Nine times out of ten the culprit isn’t the steel, the stone, or your technique—it’s the angle. In this knife sharpening angle guide, you’ll discover how a few degrees can spell the difference between a laser-keen edge that lasts weeks and a ragged bevel that dulls after a single dinner prep.
Over the next several sections we’ll unpack the geometry behind a cutting edge, show you how different jobs (from paper-thin sashimi to hard-use camp chores) demand different bevels, and walk you step-by-step through holding those angles with confidence—whether you sharpen freehand on waterstones or drop your folder into a guided jig. By the time you reach the troubleshooting tips at the end, you’ll know not only what angle to choose, but why it performs, how to lock it in, and when to tweak it for maximum sharpness and edge life. In short: master the angle, and the rest of sharpening becomes easy.
Before you can choose the right sharpening angle, you need to understand what’s happening at the microscopic edge. Knife geometry and steel chemistry work together like blueprint and building material—get either wrong and even the sharpest bevel won’t last.
Think of a knife edge as a microscopic roof. Each degree you shave off the “pitch” changes how easily that roof can cut through rain (your food) before the shingles wear out.
| Bevel style | Typical angle (per side) | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full flat bevel | 12 – 17° | Slicing, fillet, sushi | Fragile tip; chips on hard use |
| Standard double bevel | 18 – 22° | Everyday kitchen, EDC folders | Balanced durability vs. bite |
| Robust working bevel | 24 – 30° | Cleavers, camp knives, machetes | Loses razor feel but shrugs off abuse |
Micro-bevels (aka secondary bevels) add a tiny 1-3° “safety belt” at the very edge. They’re quick to refresh, extend edge life, and let you enjoy a low-angle primary bevel without constant chipping.
Pro tip: After polishing a 15° per-side bevel on your chef’s knife, lift the spine just a hair (about a credit-card thickness) and take two light strokes. Voilà—instant micro-bevel.
Image credit: prosharpeningsupply.com
Sharpening forums love to argue numbers, but half the confusion comes from measurement language:
Why it matters: match the language on your jig, manufacturer spec, or sharpening chart. If your jig says “20°”, ask yourself, per side or total? Misreading that doubles—or halves—your bevel and wrecks consistency.
Steel isn’t just “metal”—it’s a cocktail of carbon, chromium, vanadium, and more. Each ingredient tweaks hardness (how well it resists denting) and toughness (how well it resists chipping). Angle choice rides on that balance.
| Steel family | HRC range | Angle sweet spot (per side) | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| High-carbon (1095, W2) | 56 – 60 | 18 – 22° | Tough but not super hard—needs “meat” behind the edge |
| Stainless kitchen (X50CrMoV15, VG-10) | 56 – 60 | 15 – 20° | Chromium boosts stain resistance; moderate hardness handles mid angles |
| Powder metallurgy “super” (S35VN, Elmax, MagnaCut) | 60 – 64 | 12 – 17° | Fine carbides + high hardness keep ultra-keen bevels longer |
| Ultra-hard but brittle (ZDP-189, niche 65 + HRC) | 65 – 67 | 10 – 15° *with micro-bevel* | Incredible slicing; one twist on a board can chip—reinforce with a micro-bevel |
Rule of thumb:
Harder = you can go thinner, not that you must.
Tougher = you should go thicker, unless raw keenness is mission-critical.
Remember, your knife sharpening angle guide is only as good as the steel under the bevel—choose wisely, sharpen precisely, and let geometry do the heavy lifting.
Image credit: echefknife.com
For a quick orientation across the most common types of knives, use the chart below to match each blade to its ideal sharpening angle before diving into the detailed explanations.
German and French chef’s knives, parers and utility blades are built around moderate hardness (≈ 56–59 HRC) and a versatile double bevel. Grinding them to 20–22° per side (≈ 40–44° inclusive) does three things:
Pro tip: If you crave a bit more bite for tomato skins, take the primary bevel to 18° but finish with a quick 22° micro-bevel. You gain keenness without sacrificing longevity.
Harder steels (VG-10, SG2, White #2) and, in many cases, a single-bevel grind let Japanese knives wear ultra-acute angles:
Why so sharp?
Handle with care: Hard fish bones, glass boards and dishwasher cycles will chip a 14° edge in seconds. Keep a felt-lined saya or blade guard handy, and touch up on a finishing stone (6000+ grit) rather than a pull-through device.
Every-day-carry folders, multitools, and bushcraft fixed blades live in the 18–22° bandwidth. Here’s why:
| Scenario | Recommended angle (per side) | Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| Urban EDC (boxes, zip-ties) | 18 – 20° | Slices cleanly through cardboard without snagging |
| Camp/bushcraft (feather sticks, notches) | 20 – 22° | Extra steel behind the edge resists rolling when you baton or pry |
| Hard-use tactical (seat-belt cuts, light prying) | 22° + micro-bevel | Prioritises edge stability under twisting loads |
Most pocket-knife steels (S35VN, 154CM, D2) are hard enough to support sub-20° edges, but the grit and dirt in outdoor tasks act like sandpaper; a hair thicker bevel adds insurance.
| Blade type | Go-to angle (per side) | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
| Game skinning / caping | 15 – 18° | Paper-thin cuts under the hide; low force, high control |
| Fish fillet | 12 – 15° | Flex cuts through flesh without tearing delicate meat |
| Meat cleaver / bone chopper | 25 – 30° | Massive bevel absorbs bone impact; edge won’t fold |
| Machete / kukri | 24 – 28° | Splits fibrous vegetation; resists glancing blows and dirt |
Dial it in: If your fillet knife chips on thick rib bones, add a quick 18° micro-bevel. If your cleaver stalls in cartilage, thin the primary bevel to 22° but retain a 28° micro-bevel near the heel.
| Knife Category | Sharpening Angle (per side) | Primary Use-Case | Notes / Tweaks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Western kitchen | 20 – 22° | General food prep | Add 18° edge & 22° micro-bevel for extra bite |
| Japanese double-bevel | 15 – 17° | Precision slicing | Use fine stones; avoid bone contact |
| Japanese single-bevel | 12 – 15° | Sushi, katsuramuki | Flat side stays at 0° |
| Pocket / outdoor | 18 – 22° | EDC, bushcraft | Add 22° micro-bevel for hard use |
| Specialty: cleaver | 25 – 30° | Bone, cartilage | Edge geometry > raw keenness |
| Specialty: fillet | 12 – 15° | Fish filleting | Reinforce with 18° micro-bevel near hilt |
Key takeaway: Match your angle to both steel capability and task demand. A Western chef’s knife ground to 15° may feel katana sharp—but chip on a chicken bone. Conversely, a machete honed at 30° will never glide through a tomato, yet it will survive in the jungle. Pick the right bevel, and your edge will serve you—not fight you—slice after slice.
Image credit: Work Sharp
Picking a sharpening angle isn’t guesswork; it’s the point where steel hardness, cutting task, and edge longevity intersect. Nail that sweet-spot degree and your knife will feel surgically sharp yet stay that way long after the last slice.
Think of bevel angle as a seesaw:
Aim for the crossover point where your steel’s hardness and your cutting habits meet. A mid-range 18–20° per side on most kitchen or EDC steels (VG-10, S35VN, X50CrMoV15) keeps dinner prep effortless and survives an occasional encounter with a chicken bone or shipping staple. Push thinner only if:
Conversely, bump up 2–3° if you spot micro-chips, edge rolling, or find yourself sharpening more than once a week.
| Primary task | Ideal angle (per side) | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Paper-thin slicing (tomatoes, fish) | 12 – 15° | Minimal resistance; scalpel feel |
| General kitchen prep | 18 – 20° | Balance of keenness and edge life |
| Heavy chopping (squash, poultry joints) | 20 – 22° | Extra backbone against lateral stress |
| Bushcraft / feather sticks | 20 – 22° | Strong enough to baton yet still carve |
| Bone impact (cleavers, machetes) | 24 – 30° | Blunt but brawny—edge stays intact |
Reality check: A single chef’s knife can wear two angles—e.g., 18° along most of the belly for slicing, 22° near the heel for joint work. Micro-bevels make this split personality easy: sharpen the whole edge at 18°, then add three gentle 22° strokes to the last inch.
Know the baseline
Reasons to go custom
When to re-profile completely
Pro workflow: Re-profile once on a coarse stone (220–400 grit) to reset geometry. From then on, maintain with light stropping or a fine ceramic rod; that way you touch steel only where it counts and your “sweet-spot” angle stays locked in for months, not days.
Download the printable PDF file here.
| Knife / Task | Recommended Angle (per side) | Quick Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Western kitchen knives | 20 – 22° | Balanced durability and sharpness |
| Japanese double-bevel (gyuto, santoku) | 15 – 17° | Fine slicing; harder steels |
| Japanese single-bevel (yanagiba, deba) | 12 – 15° (one side) | Laser edge for sashimi; flat backside |
| Pocket / outdoor knives | 18 – 22° | Versatile for daily tasks & bushcraft |
| Skinning / caping | 15 – 18° | Paper-thin cuts; high control |
| Fish fillet | 12 – 15° | Glides through delicate flesh |
| Meat cleaver / bone chopper | 25 – 30° | Thick bevel absorbs bone impact |
| Machete / kukri | 24 – 28° | Splits fibrous vegetation; resists abuse |
Image credit: knifegrinders.com.au
A dialed-in sharpening angle is useless if the surface beneath your blade is wrong or your jig wobbles. Start by matching abrasive, grit, and holding system to both your steel and your skill level, then lock in the chosen degrees.
| Grit range | Typical label | Purpose | When to use it |
|---|---|---|---|
| 120–400 | “Extra-coarse / Coarse” | Rapid steel removal; repairs chips; sets new bevels | Re-profiling or fixing damage |
| 600–1 000 | “Medium” | Establishes the primary edge; raises a clean burr | Routine edge refresh |
| 3 000–6 000 | “Fine” | Refines scratch pattern; improves slicing push-cuts | Finishing Western kitchen & EDC |
| 8 000–12 000 + | “Extra-fine / Polishing” | Mirror polish; hair-shaving sharpness | Sushi knives, straight razors |
Tip: If you’re short on time, keep a two-stone combo (1 000/6 000) next to the sink. That duo covers 90 % of maintenance.
Use these only until your wrist remembers the pitch—then wean off to develop freehand finesse.
| System | Angle adjustments | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spyderco Sharpmaker | Fixed 15° & 20° per side | Fast touch-ups; tiny footprint | Limited angle range |
| Lansky clamp kit | 17°, 20°, 25°, 30° slots | Inexpensive; interchangeable stones | Clamp can slip on tall spines |
| Wicked Edge / KME | Micro-adjust ≈13–35° | Lab-grade precision; repeatable results | Pricey; bench-top footprint |
Choose a system if repeatability matters more to you than sharpening speed.
Modern pull-through machines (Work Sharp, Chef’sChoice) funnel the blade between abrasive belts or discs set to a fixed inclusive angle—often 15° or 20°. They’re:
But they also:
Bottom line: Pick the abrasives and hardware that fit your steel, budget, and patience. A proper progression and stable guide turn angle theory into a screaming-sharp reality. [Best Knife Sharpeners]
Ready to turn theory into a screaming-sharp edge? Follow the sequence below—each stage builds on the last, so resist the urge to skip ahead, and you’ll finish with a blade that glides through paper like it’s not even there.
Checkpoint: A dull grey scratch pattern, full-length burr, and straight bevel lines confirm the geometry is set.
Remember: Maintenance takes minutes if you strop lightly after each use; you’ll revisit coarse stones only when chips or major dulling appear. Master this three-stage cycle, and your chosen sharpening angle will stay laser-true for months.
Image credit: Lansky
Even the perfect bevel geometry won’t stay perfect if each stroke wobbles a degree or two. Below are the habits and “tells” that let seasoned sharpeners hold rock-solid angles—even when they’re freehand on a bench stone.
| Drill | What to Do | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Sharpie Test | Color the bevel with a marker; take three slow strokes. If ink disappears evenly, your angle is true. | Instant visual feedback—no gauge needed. |
| Coin-Stack Gauge | Place one or two coins under the knife spine; match that height on every stroke, then remove the coins and repeat by feel. | Trains wrist to recognize the exact “lift” without props. |
| Flash-Glint Method | Under a bright light, tilt the blade until the bevel just stops reflecting. Memorize that wrist position before each pass. | Human eye detects the switch from glare to matte within ~½°. |
| Metronome Pressure Drill | Use a phone metronome set to 60 BPM; press lightly on the down-beat, release on the up-beat. | Builds rhythm so pressure stays consistent along the entire edge. |
Spend ten minutes on these drills before serious sharpening sessions and muscle memory will lock in the angle almost automatically.
Spotting the problem: Hold the knife edge-up under a lamp; a shiny flat spot signals the bevel is now convexed and past its intended angle.
Minor wobble (off by ≤2°)
Moderate error (banana edge or asymmetric bevels)
Severe mis-angle (edge too thick or thin)
Pro tip: After any correction, etch the new angle in your notes or on blue painter’s tape stuck to the handle. The next touch-up will start at the right pitch, preventing repeat mistakes.
Master these consistency checks and corrective tricks, and your knife will stay at its chosen angle far longer—meaning sharper cuts and fewer trips back to the coarse stone.
Video credit: Sharpening Supplies
Even the best-laid sharpening plans can hit a snag, and the same few questions pop up every time a blade misbehaves. The quick answers below clear up common angle confusion so you can get back to carving clean, chatter-free slices in minutes.
For most Western chef’s, utility, and paring knives 20 – 22° per side (≈ 40 – 44° inclusive) strikes the best balance of keenness and chip-resistance. If your knife is made from a harder Japanese or PM stainless steel (≥ 60 HRC) and you rarely strike bone, you can safely lean down to 18°—just finish with a 20° micro-bevel for durability.
Factory edges on mainstream Western brands (Wüsthof, Victorinox, Sabatier) are ground right around 20° per side. Japanese makers such as Shun or Global typically ship closer to 15 – 17°. Measure yours with a smartphone goniometer app or by matching the bevel to a guided system’s preset and noting the slot that sits flush.
Yes—when done intentionally.
If you strop lightly after each session and touch up on a fine stone when push-cuts through paper start to snag, you may go 6–12 months (home use) before a full re-profile is needed. Re-grind sooner if:
Dial in any of these tests once, and your muscle memory will keep you right on target for every future sharpening session.
If you remember only one principle, make it this: angle drives everything. Bevel geometry dictates how sharp your knife feels on day one, how long that bite survives, and how easily you can restore it months down the road. Choose an angle that matches both your steel and your chores, follow a sane grit progression, and lock in consistent strokes—the rest is just muscle memory and maintenance.
| Knife / Task | Go-to Angle (per side) | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Western chef’s / utility | 20 – 22° | All-round edge life vs. keenness |
| Japanese gyuto / santoku | 15 – 17° | Harder steels hold leaner bevels |
| Single-bevel sushi knives | 12 – 15° (one side) | Ultra-clean push cuts |
| Pocket / outdoor | 18 – 22° | Versatile for cartons to feather sticks |
| Game skinning / caping | 15 – 18° | Paper-thin control under the hide |
| Fish fillet | 12 – 15° | Glides through delicate flesh |
| Meat cleaver | 25 – 30° | Shrugs off bone impact |
| Machete / kukri | 24 – 28° | Splits fibrous vegetation all day |
Printable chart reminder. Download the PDF file here.
Tape this cheat sheet inside your tool chest, keep a printed version of the full chart by your stones, and you’ll never second-guess which angle to dial in. Master the angle, maintain it with light stropping, and every slice—whether it’s through sashimi or sapling—will feel effortless. Happy sharpening!
Author: Aleks Nemtcev | Knifemaker with 10+ Years of Experience | Connect with me on LinkedIn
References:
How We Sharpen knifeaid.com
Everything about sharpening angles Knives and Tools
More Advice and Theory on Sharpening Angles for Knives sharpeningsupplies.com
Inclusive or Exclusive Sharpening Angles prosharpeningsupply.com
Thank you. Everything written and explained in detail is OK.
Thx u for your sharping info very helpful
Good day,
What should the angle be for a döner knife?